BOOK DESCRIPTION, AUTHOR AUTOBIOGRAPHY, BOOK REVIEWS


BALINESE FOOD: THE TRADITIONAL CUISINE AND FOOD CULTURE OF BALI.

BY DR. VIVIENNE KRUGER, PH.D.

PUBLISHER: TUTTLE PUBLISHING (PERIPLUS)

ISBN NUMBER: 13:9780804844505

Balinese food is singular among the leading cuisines of the world: dedicated to the gods and fueled by an array of achingly fresh spices, it is inextricably bound to the island’s Bali-Hindu religion, culture, and community life. Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali bears witness to Bali’s time-honored, enduring, authentic village cuisine: the extraordinary, legendary beauty of Bali is mirrored in its spectacular ceremonial feasts. The preparation of Balinese food is steeped in divine rituals, exactitude, and religious perfectionism: curious strangers in paradise can only gape in awe, respect, and admiration—as we struggle to learn how to eat and make food offerings on the island of the gods. Three million peasants by day—three million smiling artists by night--the Balinese carve and etch and paint their food into the rich spiritual shapes and divine colors of fragrant, holy temples and imposing royal palaces. They build and they cook with love, art, and reverence on an island perfectly positioned and protected—and lost in time--eight secret degrees south of the equator. Welcome to the luscious green villages and humble kitchens of Bali!

Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali, is a valuable social resource about Bali--it fully illuminates its intricate, ancient, highly spiced food culture. This internationally oriented cultural cookbook focuses on the food and food culture of the legendary, mystical island of Bali. Indonesia is a rapidly developing country, gaining increasing strategic importance on the world stage both economically and politically. With one of the world's largest populations, there is great social, cultural, religious, environmental, and economic interest in Indonesia. Balinese Food will be of great use and value to expatriates, travelers, tourists, home chefs, international business people, graduate and undergraduate students, faculty, diplomats, and members of the general public interested in cooking, adventure foods, travel, and Southeast Asia. Food is the lens through which we view and examine the culture of Bali--situated in the exotic, beckoning Indonesian archipelago. Balinese Food serves as a delightful, intriguing, and meticulously researched cultural tool to enhance our understanding of this complex and important region.

AUTHOR BIOGRAPHY

Dr. Vivienne Kruger hails from New York City, and is a social and cultural historian with an M.A., M.Phil., and Ph.D. in American history from Columbia University. I took a one-week overland tour from Jakarta across Java in 1993, including a freezing cold, pre-sunrise jaunt by donkey up smoldering Mt. Bromo. The trip later deposited me by sheer serendipity on the unknown sanctuary of Bali: I fell in love with the exotic island of the gods at first sight! I have since enjoyed a twenty-year-long literary, spiritual, and cultural love affair with the gorgeous volcanic island where the gods live and the people smile and cook! I served as a special research consultant for E Entertainment Television’s “Wild On Bali” television program (1998-1999). I developed story ideas, interpreted local Balinese culture, and provided background information on religious rites, traditions, and travel attractions. I also supplied valuable interview contacts in Bali and recommended specific filming locations and themes. I was recommended to the E channel’s producer by the Indonesian Consulate in New York. I later researched and wrote a series of travel articles for Bali and Beyond Magazine (including several cover stories) from 1999-2004. I also reviewed a large number of books written about the island of Bali for Amazon at http://www.amazon.com/. As a food writer, I wrote, edited, and produced a monthly newspaper food column for the Bali Advertiser for two years (2006-2008) on Balinese culture and cuisine (“Food of the Gods). I lived in Bali for two amazing years (2007-2008), and launched an international export business buying and selling luxury goods produced in the villages of Bali. All of my passions stem from this precious sacred island: yoga, spirituality, travel, and rescuing and loving beautiful stray dogs from Bali and beyond.

As an investigator, I repeatedly engaged in first-hand, high-risk, “extreme eating” (worthy of a “Survivor” episode) to research the mysterious, inscrutable, sacred cuisine of Bali. I personally sampled such adventure nourishment as fern tips, nasi bungkus packets with the beach ladies, home-made village-grilled pindang, sambal matah, rock hard taop nuts, yeast-infested and flecked tape and tempe, beachside jagung bakar, rice ketupat (in Singapore), endless rows of sate ayam and sate lilit, black rice pudding, and countless colorful local fruits and palm sugar and coconut-based desserts (kue mangkok, sumping, dadar gulung, jaja laklak, onde-onde). I swallowed a slippery, rubbery ritual meat (or dare I say organ meat) object at a high-caste purification ceremony in Ubud in order not to offend the officiating priest! I amassed almost 2,000 photos of the traditional foods of Bali—from the barnyard to the temple to the “final resting plate.” I crawled and slipped through wet, muddy rice fields photographing dragonflies and ducks, pursued live chicken delivery trucks down the side roads of Ubud, and invaded a dark, dank, Dickensian tofu factory in Seririt. I snapped saté stick offerings at a cremation ceremony on Kuta Beach, goat saté sellers in Lovina (trophy display leg, hoof, and skin waving in the breeze), and jukung fishermen bringing in the morning mackerel catch at the break of dawn in Nusa Lembongan.

Review: "Books About Food and Spirit. Bali's Food Culture"

To an outsider, the cuisine of Bali is perhaps one of its least visible cultural features. Just about every visitor to the ‘island of the gods’ will have witnessed the spell-binding beauty of Bali’s brightly festooned temples and colourful ceremonies. Many of us have had the experience of being stopped in traffic while a long procession of Balinese in traditional dress pass by. However, how many of us have witnessed first-hand the intrinsic cultural links between Bali’s cuisine and its culture and religion? How many of us have witnessed the pains-taking predawn rituals of preparing the many and varied dishes that accompany a traditional celebration, such as Lawar or Babi Guling? In Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine & Food Culture of Bali, social and cultural historian Dr. Vivienne Kruger has compiled a meticulously researched record of the many aspects of Balinese cuisine—from the secular to the spiritual—with an eye for detail that evades most observers. In the book Dr Kruger chronicles in careful detail the ceremonies, rituals and practices that accompany virtually all of Bali’s unique culinary arts—from satay to sambal. All the classic Balinese dishes are represented such as a babi guling, the popular spit-roast pork to bebek betutu, whole smoked duck—each accompanied with a detailed recipe for those who would
like to have a go at preparing the dish themselves. Lesser known aspects of Bali’s intriguing eating habits are also presented here. You may not know that the Balinese enjoy catching and eating such delicacies as dragon flies and rice paddy eels. Dog is also widely eaten around the island, and regretfully, endangered species of turtle are still consumed on some occasions. In all, Dr. Kruger has prepared a spicy and multi-layered dish as delicious and pains-takingly prepared as the dishes described within to create an impressive work of scholarship jampacked with information and insight into the rarely seen world of Bali’s cultural cuisine.
BALI STYLE MAGAZINE. Vol.10 No.2. May 2014. Reviewer: Adam Fenton. Bali Style Magazine, and former editor of Garuda Airlines Magazine

REVIEWS:

"A Spiritual Journey into the Culinary World of Bali" By Jonathan Copeland, an author and photographer based in Bali. www.thejakartaglobe.com/features/spiritual-journey-culinary-world-bali Review published in The Jakarta Globe, April 17, 2014.
“What a joy this book is! I love recipe books, but it’s short-lived; I enjoy the pictures for several minutes, read a few pages, and then my eyes glaze over. They are basically books to be used in the kitchen for one recipe at a time. This book, however, is in a different class altogether and designed to be read in its entirety. It’s in its own sui generis category; it has recipes at the end of most of the twenty-one chapters, but it’s a book to be read from cover to cover, yet it could easily be read chapter by chapter, in any order, as they are all self-contained. Every bite-sized chapter is a flowing narrative from a well-stocked brain encompassing Balinese culture, geography and history, while not losing its main focus: food.

As you would expect from a scholar with a PhD in history from Columbia University, the subject matter has been meticulously researched, not from books and articles and other people’s work, but from actually being on the ground and in the markets and in the kitchens of Balinese families, where the Balinese themselves learn their culinary skills, hands on, passed down orally, manually and practically from generation to generation. Vivienne Kruger has lived in Bali long enough to get it right. That’s no mean feat, as the subject has not been fully studied before. Yes, there are so-called Balinese recipe books, most, if I’m not mistaken, written by foreigners, and heavily adapted. The dishes have not, until now, been systematically placed in their proper cultural context, which is extremely important for the Balinese, nor has there been any examination of the numerous varieties of each type of recipe, nor have they been given their true Balinese names.

This groundbreaking book is a pleasure to read, not just for its fascinating content, which I learnt a lot from, but for the exuberance, enthusiasm and originality of the language. There’s not a dull sentence in the book. You just can’t wait to read the next phrase. There are eye-opening and jaw-dropping passages for the general reader as Kruger describes delicacies from the village of Tengkudak in Tabanan district--grasshoppers, dragonflies, eels and live baby bees — and explains how they are caught and cooked. She does not shy away from controversial subjects, such as eating dog and turtle. Parts of it are not for the faint-hearted, but other parts make you want to go out and join the participants, such as the Nusa Lembongan fishermen, who sail their outriggers at 5.30 a.m.

The author quotes Miguel Covarrubias, the great Mexican observer of the 1930s, who wrote “The Island of Bali.” It has inspired all writers since, including myself and my co-author, Ni Wayan Murni, in our book “Secrets of Bali, Fresh Light on the Morning of the World.” There is, however, no bibliography, which I found strange at first. I can only imagine it’s a reflection of how original the subject matter is; there simply are no other sources.

Throughout the book Kruger mentions Balinese and Indonesian words and sometimes discusses their derivations. It’s a Herculean task. I was intrigued to read that “satay” comes from the Tamil word for flesh ( sathai ) and that South Indians brought satay to Southeast Asia before Indonesia developed its own tradition. The book is full of interesting tidbits like this. I was hoping that there would be a glossary of all these words for future reference, but I can quite understand the publishers’ reluctance, as it would have doubled the length of the book. Perhaps an accompanying glossary for future publication would be worth considering. The book contains 47 recipes in all, 11 of which came from Murni’s own restaurant, Murni’s Warung, in Ubud. Mr. Dolphin of Warung Dolphin in Lovina also contributed a number of recipes. Kruger adds an introduction to each recipe, with a detailed and usually very personal commentary. I think my favorite, though, is from a village priest (pemangku), I Made Arnila of the Ganesha (Siwa) Temple in Lovina:

Holy Water from a sacred spring or river, or regular purified drinking water.
Pour the water into a metal container that holds holy water (sangku).
Take small, bright pink bougainvillea flower petals from the offering trays around the central Lingga shrine (at a Siwa temple) and drop them into the sangku. This means that Siwa gives power. Fragrant, greenish-yellow blossoms from the Ylang-ylang, an East Indian tree (Cananga odorata) can be used instead of bougainvillea.

Light an incense stick and place it in the offering tray beneath the Lingga. The pemangku sits on the floor to pray or stands and recites three holy mantras for holy water:

Mantra Ganesha Mantra

Guru Gayatri Mantra

Mantra Durga

The pemangku distributes the fresh holy water to worshippers at temple ceremonies.

I don’t think many readers will be qualified to use the recipe for holy water, but I am sure most will enjoy this book enormously; I certainly did.”

"A veritable feast of information."—Ni Wayan Murni, owner of Murni's Warung, Ubud, Bali

"Dr Vivienne Kruger has written a book that is as satisfying as the food that she describes."—Jonathan Copeland, author of Secrets of Bali, Fresh Light on the Morning of the World.

"Vivienne is a wonderful and happy person who is full of love for life and delicious cuisine, which she has so beautifully presented in her book, Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine of Bali. I have known her for a long period of time, and found her to have a very kind, loving, and generous soul."—Sanjit Das, OM YOGA

"Thanks so much. I'm really enjoying the book. I've known a lot about Bali over my 37 years of going there ... but I didn't always know WHY those things were that way culturally, so it's been a fun read!!" Danielle Surkatty, Member of the Organizing
Committee. Living in Indonesia, A Site for Expatriates.
www.expat.or.id March 2014

"Such a handsome book! Tuttle did a great job on the design, both inside and out. I've only had a chance to skim the contents but look forward to reading it all. Of course, I'm no authority on food, Balinese or otherwise, but I think I'm a good judge of books. Yours is first rate." Cordially, Dr. Alden Vaughan, Professor of American History, Columbia University, New York. March 2014

“Take a Trip to Bali through Food! Enter Bali through the food, spices and cooking culture of the island. An array of favorite dishes drinks, and desserts for those whose passion is food. Interesting and enjoyable reading and cooking!”
Margery Hamai. Bodhi Tree Dharma Center. Honolulu, Hawaii

“I am very happy that the book is ready to enjoy. We are very proud that some Puri Lumbung cuisine (authentic recipe) is in your book. I hope this can enrich the knowledge and creation of people in the cooking world.”
Yudhi Ishwari, Puri Lumbung Cottages, Munduk, northern Bali. April 2014

"Dr. Vivienne Kruger Ph.D has emerged on a growing list of champions of Balinese cuisine with the publication of Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali (Tuttle Publishing, 2014). Vivienne Kruger’s long connection to Bali, her love of Balinese food and academic eye for detail has resulted in a book that breaks new ground in its study of Balinese culture, the island's delicious food and the accompanying ancient traditional cooking methods." A Taste of Bali. From the Bookshelf - Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine and Food Culture of Bali (2/22/2014) Bali Update, Feb. 24, 2014. Edition 912. www.balidiscovery.com

"Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine & Food Culture of Bali. Just when you thought you knew a lot about Bali, along comes this in-depth look at the cuisine and how it fits into everyday culture. In Balinese Food the author brings to life Bali's time-honored and authentic village cooking traditions. In over 20 detailed chapters, she explores how the island's intricate culinary art is an inextricable part of Bali's Hindu religion, its culture and its community life. This book provides a detailed roadmap for those who wish to make their own exciting exploration of the exotic world of Balinese cooking!" Living in Indonesia, A Site for Expatriates. Recommended Publications. http://www.expat.or.id/info/recommendedpublications.html#non-fiction , March 2014

"Finally I got your book. I show it to all my friends here. And its so amazing, you really put all your heart into this book and I can feel that you love Bali so so so much!" Mega Ngoei. Jakarta, Indonesia. March 2014

“Your book was awesome. It makes me want to go out and become a chef!” Henry C. Smith, San Francisco April 2014

“We are proud and happy that one of our graduates is the author of an interesting book enjoyed by many readers.” Kachuen Gee, Head Librarian, Leonard Lief Library, Herbert
Lehman College, Bronx, New York. May 2014

"Not only a thorough book about a fascinating cuisine, but good travel journalism as well. A delightful journey for the senses."
Mutual Publishing, LLC (Consignment) April 30, 2014

"By way of introduction to Vivienne Kruger’s Balinese Food, bear in mind that eight degrees south of the equator, this modest-sized lava rich, emerald green island rests among the 17,508 remote, culturally distinct constellation of Indonesian islands. It is home to three million mortals who believe they are protected by an unfathomable number of Bali-Hindu goddesses and gods that inhabit the island’s sacred mountain peaks. The Balinese are unlike almost any other island people in that they are suspicious, even distrustful of the sea, believing mischievous spirits and negative powers dwell there—the underworld, as it were. Yes, they eat seafood, they just mostly let other Indonesians do the fetching. Fittingly, Kruger’s masterful use of language; dogged, on the ground conversations with thousands of Balinese cooks and farmers; and disarming humanity leads to a culinary-minded compendium unlike almost any other. Bali, you got the scribe you deserved.

What made Kruger’s work even more impressive is the fact that almost nothing about Balinese food history has been written down over the years. She writes: “Like so many other traditions in Bali, cooking techniques and eating habits are passed down verbally by elders to their children and grandchildren who help in the kitchen. However, Indonesia has an old orally transmitted food culture because the pleasure of storytelling is entwined with the pleasure and effort of cooking and eating.” Balinese Food is framed around twenty-one chapters, including the all-important Sacred Ceremonial Cuisine, Traditional Village Foods, the Cult of Rice, Balinese Pig, Balinese Duck, and specialized cooking techniques like saté, banana leaf wrappers, and the use of bumbu, a sacred, powerful dry spice paste mixture. In the chapter Seafood in Bali, she lists a popular, fragrant accompaniment called Sambal Matah—chopped shallots, red chilies, coconut oil, and kaffir lime juice—that is always served raw and fresh, in this case, alongside a simple recipe for grilled tuna. An outstanding achievement in the realm of island cooking and Indonesian history, Balinese Food showcases the Balinese people in the most flattering of ways."
Foreword Reviews Magazine. Foreword Reviews. Summer 2014
issue. www.forewordreviews.com

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

BOOKSIGNING EVENTS

USC PACIFIC ASIA MUSEUM, AUTHOR EVENT, "A TASTE OF BALI."  LECTURE, FOOD SNACKS, AND BOOKSIGNING. SUNDAY SEPTEMBER 14TH, 2014, 2 PM.  PART OF THE "AUTHORS ON ASIA"  MUSEUM PROGRAM. 46 NORTH LOS ROBLES AVENUE, PASADENA, CALIFORNIA.  www.pacificasiamuseum.org

BARNES AND NOBLE, AUTHOR EVENT AND BOOKSIGNING, CHINO HILLS, "THE SHOPPES" 3625 GRAND AVENUE, CALIFORNIA, JUNE 28, 2014

BARNES AND NOBLE, AUTHOR EVENT AND BOOKSIGNING,  PALMDALE, CALIFORNIA, JUNE 26, 2014

Tuesday, April 22, 2014

Phi Beta Kappa Interview, Key Reporter April 9, 2014

By Eleanor Carrano
In an interview with Phi Beta Kappa member Vivienne Kruger, I was privileged to glimpse inside the fragrant, nuanced world of Balinese cuisine and food culture as brought to life in Kruger’s new book Balinese Food: The Traditional Cuisine & Food Culture of Bali (Tuttle Publishing, 2014). Kruger hails from New York City and is a social historian with an MA, M.Phil., and Ph.D. in American history from Columbia University. Her now twenty-year-old love affair with the island of Bali began accidentally (more providentially, from the faith-filled Balinese perspective), when she visited Jakarta on the island of Java during a 1993 vacation. Kruger participated in an overland tour of Java and then a spontaneous boat trip to neighboring Bali, where she was first struck by what she terms the iconic “Balinese smile.” Kruger has returned to Bali every year since 1993 and spent two years there from 2007 to 2008. Kruger has produced a monthly food column for the Bali Advertiser, the largest Balinese expat newspaper, and has shared her expertise as a television program research consultant and travel article writer.
INTERVIEW
In the introduction to your book, you say that "We, as curious Westerners, can only gape in awe as we struggle to learn how to eat and make food offerings on the island of the gods." The idea that everything–including cooking–can be an act of praise must truly elevate any cuisine. Do you think that the integration of food and religion is something Western culture has lost and can return to? Can you comment on the importance of this integration in general?
KRUGER: We, as curious Westerners, can only gape in awe as we struggle to learn how to eat and make food offerings on the island of the gods. I have enjoyed an incredible, decades-long literary, spiritual, and cultural love affair with the gorgeous volcanic island where the gods live—and the people smile from their hearts and cook from their souls. Food and religion are synonymous on Bali—an island often referred to as the sacrosanct, pristine, morning of the world. To cook is to pray: nothing takes place in Bali without the involvement of the gods. The less complicated, less expensive village foods cooked by the wife for her family every day are largely made for secular purposes to feed the family (but tiny portions must still be offered to the gods first). When purchasing any food, the Balinese will first think about the gods. When the Balinese purchase small colorful, rice cake sweets (jaja), their first thought when shopping is, “What do I need for a ceremony?” Their second concern is what foods they love to eat, because they will be consuming it after the festivities (to avoid wasting the food, and food money, by choosing sweets they dislike). A tertiary, but important consideration: can we afford this type of thing?
The Balinese love meat, but pork, beef, and chicken are still very expensive food commodities on Bali, and are mainly reserved for special ritual occasions. The Balinese usually feast on pork during ceremonial festivities—it is truly the preferred “food of the gods.” The Balinese consume very little meat in everyday life, usually adding a few tiny morsels of chicken or fish to their basic dish of rice for ordinary meals. Well-born, first-caste, high status Brahman priests, called pedandas, are not allowed to eat meat at all (cow, bulls, or pork); they also cannot consume food from street sellers or in the market, drink alcohol, or taste consecrated food offerings destined for the gods. (The pedanda are also not allowed to eat the offerings once a temple ceremony finishes—the people always bring the offerings home to eat.) Once ordained, Bali’s high priests can only eat vegetarian food: vegetables (sayur), rice (nasi), and water. It is not possible to eat eggs, beef, pork, chicken, duck, or Masako (a popular chicken bouillon flavoring). No coffee, tea, or milk—only water.
You say that Balinese cooking is at its best when prepared for "life cycle rituals," such as weddings and cremations. Tooth filings are another. Could you explain this custom and its significance?
KRUGER: The toothfiling ceremony (typically done at puberty or during adolescence) is one of the most central spiritual and religious obligations in Balinese Hindu life. The goal of the ritual toothfiling (potong gigi) ceremony is to eliminate, control, or reduce the Sad Ripu—the six deadly sins or negative vices (jealousy, anger, confusion, drunkenness, greed, and desire). This critical ceremony also renders the recipient calmer, more mature, and more emotionally composed. This is accomplished by filing down and flattening the six upper, animal-like teeth—the two canines and four incisors. The toothfiling ceremony is a potentially dangerous undertaking, sometimes resulting in the death of the participant. Bad or jealous people can steal the tooth filings and use them to perform black magic against the individual. To prevent this, parents usually go to the priest and obtain a protective amulet for their child.
The Balinese want to give the gods (and their invited deified ancestors) the most spectacular show possible on such a festive occasion: to delight and honor the gods is to create better karma for the next life. Food is always an integral part of a ceremony in Bali. Family members and local helpers prepare time-consuming, special ceremonial dishes for the main meal at a toothfiling. They construct large towers of colored cakes, fruits, and rice snacks as offerings—in both the kitchen area and the courtyard of the family temple. Large quantities of pork and chicken satés are mass-assembled as common offerings, and small satés are fashioned for caru (sacrificial) offerings. The food is cooked by groups of men and women beginning in the early morning. This special ceremonial feast typically consists of rice, saur (a yellow side dish of fried grated coconut pulp mixed with palm sugar or spices like turmeric and beans, sprinkled on top of rice), and several types of lawar (traditionally cooked by the men, it is a combination of finely chopped meat, vegetables, egg, copious spices, and raw, uncooked blood). The ritual menu also features tum (ground spiced meat steamed in banana leaf purses), ares (banana tree trunk soup with meat), bebek betutu (slow-cooked duck braised with vegetables and scorching spices in a banana leaf), and babi guling (spit-roasted suckling pig). Saté lilit (a fine mixture of ground meat and spices wound around a thick bamboo stick or lemon grass stalk) is quickly cooked over glowing coconut husk coals. This Balinese speciality is generally only prepared for major ceremonial occasions.
You describe the Balinese as "three million peasants by day, three million artists by night" who "carve and etch and paint their food into...rich spiritual shapes and divine colors." Can you describe what inspired you to use artistic imagery in describing the cooking of Bali?
KRUGER: Almost every person in Bali is an artist—Balinese farmers surrender their water buffaloes, rice fields, and herds of ducks at the end of the day to become painters, woodcarvers, sculptors, and stone carvers (elaborate lava stone statues for temples and royal compounds). The Balinese are supremely creative—this ability is handed down from generation to generation by both genetics and tradition. In Bali, art is also yet another way to express reverence for the deities. This same urge to create beauty to honor and please the gods (everything in Bali is done to honor the gods) is carried over into cooking. Ornate temple-bound foods are constructed to be consecrated by priests and then offered to the gods (who inhale the essence of the foods). A prime example of Balinese “food artistry” is the amazing, six-foot-tall banten tegeh fruit offering towers borne on the heads of elaborately dressed local women. They carry the heavy, fruit-layered “skyscrapers” throughout the village streets in colorful, traffic-stopping, single file processions to their nearby temples. All financial and social resources in Bali are diverted towards and invested in these continuous ceremonies which always entail food offerings. When a village becomes more prosperous through tourist dollars, the newfound wealth is used to stage ever-more elaborate offerings, processions, and intricate displays of holy food.
In your book, you cite Miguel Covarrubias, "the Mexican painter, traveler, and amateur anthropologist," whose "seminal work, Island of Bali, was published in 1937" and "ignited the world's love affair with Bali." You say that "Covarrubias' vivid impressions of a pre-modern, pre-tourist Bali included the first Western descriptions of traditional Balinese food and food culture." From your own experience, how has Western perception of Bali changed since Covarrubias' time? Has tourism and globalization in general increased appreciation for Balinese cooking, or has it continued cultural integrity?
KRUGER: Covarrubias's vivid impressions of a pre-modern, pre-tourist Bali included the first Western descriptions of traditional Balinese food and food culture. Very little has changed since then. Bali (and its signature foods) still remain cloaked and sheltered from the ravages of time, tourism, and publicity: most Western people (except for neighboring Australians) have never visited Bali and cannot even locate it on a map. Globalization has had little effect on the local popularity of Balinese food—the food of the gods remains a secret, extremely spicy, homegrown pleasure (or shall we say vice). Balinese food is unique, idiosyncratic, and indigenous to this one sacred island—hidden eight precious degrees south of the equator. Difficult and time-consuming to create, it still remains largely unknown to the outside world. The word “Bali” always conjures up an exotic tropical dream of both teeming nature and primordial innocence—like a still-life Tahitian painting by Paul Gauguin. Heavily touristed areas like Kuta have taken on the trappings of Western society on the surface, but back in the villages (the heart and soul of Bali), the Bali-Hindu religion, the gods, loyalty to village, and consumption of traditional foods are the bedrock of life. Time-pressed, working Balinese people in Denpasar may settle for a quick package of Indonesian ramen noodles and soup—but they would much rather have their beloved lawar, babi guling, or ketupat rice cakes.
Mass tourism has not threatened, diminished, or altered Balinese cuisine—but nor has it increased the international awareness of Balinese food. The food of the gods thrives on Bali, but it rarely appears on tourist or foreign menus. What is eaten in the villages today, is what was consumed in the villages five hundred years ago. Balinese food is always found in Balinese compounds, villages, and temples—and the Balinese people prefer to eat this over anything else. The men (very often ritual food specialists) still prepare the lavish, meat-based food offerings for ceremonies, while the women create the beautiful, artistic, intricately woven coconut leaf offerings which decorate this sacred place. The average Balinese woman will normally spend a third or more of her waking life preparing offerings at home—almost all of which contain or entail food. Canang sari are the small, square, pale yellow coconut leaf trays placed on car dashboards, on top of tall offerings, and on guardian statues. They must include all the proper elements: betel pepper leaf, areca palm nut, and lime paste (these three betel chew ingredients symbolize the Hindu trinity—Lords Brahma, Wisnu, and Siwa), golden banana slices, sugar cane, small cakes, tiny amounts of cooked food, glutinous white and black rice, shredded pandanus leaves, coins, and five differently colored flowers to represent the gods. The little baskets and trays must be created and plaited every single day, and also placed around ritually significant areas within the family compound.
You describe the megibung ritual as a "tool of religious ritual and a communal gathering," originating in the 18th century in the Karangasem kingdom of East Bali, where it was also used to ascertain the number of troops in the King's army at the time. Coming together in feast has served a multitude of social functions across time and culture. Do you think Western culture, and American culture in particular, has lost track of the purposefulness of preparing and eating food in community?
KRUGER: American culture (and the nuclear family as a social unit), has moved away from the custom of communally preparing and eating food with friends, relatives, and neighbors. Feast-like social rituals persist at Thanksgiving and Christmas when families gather together over the dinner table. People still attend significant rituals like weddings, graduations, baby showers, and funerals—but these occasions do not offer opportunities to cook and feast together as a community (largely replaced by commercial professional catering). Some members of modern American society belong to churches which provide a sense of common purpose, religious feeling, and devotion to the divine—but this normally does not entail the preparation and consumption of food as a routine, prayerful congregation activity.
Your Ph.D. from Columbia University is in American history. From your study of American society, do you think that our nation's long history of immigration from a multitude of countries with rich traditional food cultures will preserve an appreciation for purposeful cooking and eating in this nation?
KRUGER: Americans still enjoy the food legacy of sustained immigration from almost every country and culture in the world. America has evolved, however, into a fast-paced, commercial, business-oriented culture with little time for purposeful, creative home cooking and eating. We instead appreciate our rich smorgasbord of take-out ethnic choices on the run—from Japanese sushi to Mexican tortillas to Chinese Peking duck. In Manhattan in New York City, there is a long line of restaurant delivery boys every single evening around 7:00 P.M. in apartment building lobbies—waiting to be buzzed upstairs by the doorman. They are delivering Chinese, Vietnamese, Thai, Italian, and Mexican food. I was the only person in my building to ever cook dinner at home!
As you say, Balinese cuisine is "steeped in religious ritual and devout Bali-Hindu belief." What do you find to be the most beautiful or enlightening aspect of this belief system, and how does this aspect find expression in Balinese cooking?
KRUGER: Religion is the number one topic of conversation throughout Bali. The Balinese are very conscious of their karma: coupled with reincarnation, it is the underpinning of their religious belief system. Most Balinese believe that their karma (the balance of positive and negative deeds) is good—this gives them tremendous personal confidence and peace of mind. When they ride on their motorbikes, they do not need to look to the left or to the right when they peel out of a narrow alleyway. Since their souls are clean and their karma is good, they cannot have an accident. They are constantly aware of their actions—and the duty to do, speak, and think only good things. Karma is their spiritual bank account as they go through life. Preparing food offerings and staging elaborate ceremonies for the gods is also part of their karmic obligation. A great deal of the food cooked in Bali is brought to the temples as offerings—it will be blessed by the priest and then the family takes it home to eat. The Balinese continually create and eat purified, blessed food—a source of spiritual as well as physical nourishment. Theirs is quite literally, the food of the gods.
From the vantage point of the village—the center of the Balinese universe—the Balinese can then extrapolate to the rest of the world. The Balinese village is shelter from the storm. The entire village cooks ceremonial dishes together from birth until death—united by their belief in religious rituals and Bali-Hinduism. Everything that they do, they also do under the protection of the gods. Holy water is the most popular drink on Bali—this says everything! I became very enamored of Balinese culture and ritual—and cherished the experience of sipping holy water dispensed by a village priest. You instantly feel safe and calm and blessed—empowered, happy, and protected. The Balinese constructed a ring of extremely significant, important temples around the perimeter of the island to protect Bali and the people of Bali. It works. Safe and secure, the Balinese live mindfully. They live—and cookfully and joyfully and in the moment. My good friend Kasena told me that he never worries—as long as he has rice to eat for tomorrow, he is happy. The number one expression in Bali is, “Enjoy your life!” They smile and laugh all the time from the heart (with their beautifully filed, straight teeth)—with both absolute ecstasy and compete innocence. Giggling with the Balinese is one of the greatest pleasures on earth.
What were some of the challenges of writing a book on Balinese cooking, beyond those you had already experienced writing newspaper food columns and travel articles on this subject?
KRUGER: Food columns and articles are short (the biggest challenge is to keep them down to 1,000 words!), but they still require a great deal of research to ensure accuracy. Writing a book on Balinese food and cooking turned out to be a very different, real labor of love and commitment—and I enjoyed every exciting minute of it. I repeatedly engaged in first-hand, high-risk, “extreme eating” (worthy of a “Survivor” episode) to research the mysterious, inscrutable, sacred cuisine of Bali. I personally sampled such adventure nourishment as fiddlehead fern tips, nasi bungkus packets with the beach ladies, home-made village-grilled pindang, raw and heavenly sambal matah, rock hard taop nuts, yeast-infested and flecked tape and tempe, beachside grilled ears of corn (jagung bakar), rice ketupat (in Singapore), endless rows of saté ayam and saté lilit, black rice pudding, and countless colorful local fruits and palm sugar and coconut-based desserts (dadar guling, jaja laklak, onde-onde). I swallowed a slippery, rubbery ritual meat (or dare I say organ meat) object at a high-caste purification ceremony in Ubud in order not to offend the officiating priest! I sampled delicious sweet daluman (and was sick with a flu from this popular village drink for three days afterwards!).
The most difficult part of the incredible ten-year adventure was obtaining recipes from the Balinese—as they are very reluctant to stand out from the crowd (and their village) and do something as individualistic as participate in a book project. They come from an oral rather than a written culture, and are worried that they will accidentally give me the wrong information. They are also unfamiliar with the formal recipe format--they cook by instinct and heredity and family memory. It took many years to obtain my favorite recipes—and it was an incredible-victorylike a landslide—when a long-sought-after recipe suddenly fell into my lap from the most unlikely of places.
I also amassed approximately two thousand photos of the traditional foods of Bali—from the barnyard to the temple to the “final resting plate.” I crawled and slipped through wet, muddy rice fields photographing dragonflies and ducks, pursued live chicken delivery trucks down the side roads of Ubud, and invaded a dark, dank, Dickensian tofu factory in Seririt. I snapped saté stick offerings at a cremation ceremony on Kuta Beach, goat saté sellers in Lovina (trophy display leg, hoof, and skin waving in the breeze), and jukung fishermen bringing in the morning mackerel catch at the break of dawn in Nusa Lembongan. I loved playing photographer-spy—capturing some spectacular photos of this beautiful sanctified island.
Eleanor Carrano is a junior at the University of Dallas majoring in Biology. The University of Dallas is home to the Eta of Texas Chapter of Phi Beta Kappa. Phi Beta Kappa Interview.  April 9, 2014www.keyreporter.org/pbknews/pbknews/Details/954.html
    




(Posted on 4/9/2014 )
LINKS TO BOOK REVIEWS, INTERVIEWS, ARTICLES, AND FAVORITE WEBSITES

Book Review, Jonathan Copeland. Published in The Jakarta Globe, April 17, 2014.
www.thejakartaglobe.com/features/spiritual-journey-culinary-world-bali

Phi Beta Kappa Interview.  April 9, 2014.
www.keyreporter.org/pbknews/pbknews/Details/954.html      

Book Review.  Living in Indonesia website. www.expat.or.id
www.expat.or.id/info/recommendedpublications.html#non-fiction

Lehman College History Department, Alumni Newsletter, April 7-8, 2014.
www.lehman.edu/academics/arts-humanities/history/alumni.php 

British Women's Association, Jakarta.  Grapevine (Newsletter) April 2014 issue
www.bwajakarta.org/newsletter.html

Bali Style Magazine. Book Review. Author Adam Fenton. "Books About Food and Spirit.  Bali's Food Culture" vol. 10, No.2. May 2014

Indonesia Expat Magazine.  Bill Dalton Interview.  "Food and Drink." Issue 117.   May 6, 2014
www.indonesiaexpat.biz

Foreword Reviews, Cookbooks.  Foreword Reviews Magazine.  Balinese Food, Summer 2014 issue
www.forewordreviews.com

Murni's Warung, Tamarind Spa, Ubud Bali
http://www.murnis.com

Bali Spirit, The Yoga Barn, Ubud, Bali
http://www.balispirit.com

Good Reads
www.goodreads.com


OM YOGA STUDIO, Darwin, Australia (Sanjit Das)

http://www.omdesigns.com.au

Darwin Yoga Space, Darwin, Australia (Carole Baillargeon)
http://www.darwinyogaspace.com

Intuitive Flow Yoga Studio, Penestenan-Ubud, Bali (Linda Madani)
http://www.intuitiveflow.com


Utama Spice Spa Products, Ubud, Bali (Natural Delicious Scents)
www.utamaspicebali.com


Murni and Murni's Warung in Literature. Non-Fiction
http://www.murnis.com/index.php/warung/murni-s-warung-in-literature

www.amazon.com/author/dr.viviennekruger

www.amazon.co.uk

University of Hawaii CSEAS, Cooking Southeast Asia, Balinese Food Book Review
www.cseashawaii.org/2014/08cooking-southeast-asia





Wednesday, March 26, 2014

GANESHA BOOKSHOPS BALI


A highly recommended place to purchase a copy of my book if you are in Bali (for both expatriates and visiting tourists) is at one of the beautiful boutique Ganesha bookshops:

Ganesha Bookshops Bali
1. Cnr. Jalan Raya & Jalan Jembawan, Ubud (opposite the Post Office) TEL. 62-361-970320
2. Jalan Petitenget 888 (inside Biku Restaurant) Kerobokan
3. Jalan Danau Tamblingan 42, Sanur

Follow us on Facebook: Ganesha Bookshop
Website:
www.ganeshabooksbali.com
Tel: (62 361) 970320
Office: 62-361-973359

 



Bodhi Tree Dharma Center

Bodhi Tree Dharma Center
654A North Judd Street
Honolulu, Hawaii  96817

www.bodhitreehawaii.com